Why do trees fail in New England storms?
Trees in Andover face three kinds of winter stress: wind from nor’easters and coastal storms, heavy wet snow that loads branches, and ice that coats every twig. Early-season and late-season snow is especially damaging because it lands on trees that still carry leaves, which catch far more weight. When storms bring heavy rain first, soil softens and roots hold less firmly just as the wind arrives.
Trees most likely to fail have a predictable profile: dead branches, weak forks with included bark, long heavy limbs over open space, decay in the trunk or roots, recent root damage, or a top-heavy crown at an exposed woodland edge. That predictability is what makes preparation worthwhile.
What should you do before storm season?
The best time to prepare is late fall, after leaves drop and before the first heavy snow, or in the dormant winter months between storms.
1. Have your trees inspected
An inspection identifies the trees and limbs most likely to fail and what they could hit. Focus first on trees that could reach the house, driveway, power lines and areas where people gather.
2. Remove deadwood
Dead branches are the first to break and the most likely to fall without warning. Removing them is the simplest and most effective step, done as part of tree trimming.
3. Reduce end weight on long limbs
Long, horizontal limbs act as levers under snow and wind. A measured crown reduction shortens them back to strong laterals, reducing the load without topping the tree.
4. Support weak unions
Co-dominant stems with included bark are classic storm failures. If the wood is sound, tree cabling and bracing can share the load between stems and significantly reduce the risk of a split.
5. Thin dense crowns
Selective thinning lets wind pass through instead of pushing against a solid wall of branches. It also spreads snow load more evenly.
6. Remove hazardous trees
Dead trees, especially ash killed by emerald ash borer, and trees with major decay or failing roots can’t be made safe by pruning. Removing them before winter avoids emergency calls during storms. See our tree removal process.
7. Protect young trees and shrubs
Tie up multi-stemmed arborvitae and junipers loosely with soft twine so snow doesn’t splay them, and wrap or fence young trees where deer browse heavily in winter.
Start with what’s overheadIf you can only do one thing, deal with dead and weak limbs over the house, the driveway and where people walk. That’s where storm damage costs the most.
What should you do during a storm?
- Stay away from trees in high wind, and don’t park under large trees during a forecast storm.
- Don’t shake ice off branches. Iced branches are brittle and can snap. Let the ice melt naturally.
- Gently brush heavy snow off shrubs and small trees with an upward sweep of a broom, if you can reach safely from the ground.
- Treat every downed wire as live. Stay well back and call the utility.
What should you do after a storm?
- Check for hazards from a distance. Look for hanging branches ("widowmakers"), split trunks, new leans and lifted soil.
- Keep people and pets clear of damaged trees until they’re assessed.
- Call the utility about any tree touching power lines. Never attempt it yourself.
- Photograph the damage for your insurance company before anything is moved, if it’s safe.
- Call for professional help with anything on a structure, hanging in the crown or under tension.
Storm-damaged wood is under tensionBent and broken trees store enormous energy. A single cut can make wood spring or roll unpredictably. Leave storm cleanup of large limbs and leaning trees to trained crews.
How do you know if a storm-damaged tree can be saved?
| Damage | Usually saveable? |
|---|---|
| A few broken small branches | Yes, with clean pruning cuts |
| Loss of one major limb, trunk intact | Often, with corrective pruning |
| Split at a major fork | Sometimes, with bracing if the wood is sound and the split recent |
| More than half the crown lost | Rarely |
| Uprooted or new severe lean with lifted roots | Usually no |
| Trunk cracked through | Usually no |
After the immediate hazard is handled, a follow-up assessment decides whether to restore, support or remove the tree.
Which trees are most storm-prone in Andover?
- Silver maples and willows: fast-growing, brittle wood
- Callery (Bradford) pears: narrow, weak forks that split
- Tall white pines at woodland edges: top-heavy crowns exposed to wind
- Dead or declining ash: brittle from emerald ash borer damage
- Older trees with past topping: weakly attached regrowth
Oaks and hickories generally hold up better, but any tree with decay or a weak fork can fail.
How does Andover’s geography change storm risk?
Not every property faces the same exposure. Homes on hills and ridges, such as parts of South Andover near Holt Hill, catch more wind. Properties at the edge of woodland, common in West Andover’s newer subdivisions, have trees that grew up sheltered and are now exposed. Lots near the Shawsheen River and wetlands have softer, wetter soils, where trees can uproot more easily after heavy rain. And older neighborhoods like Shawsheen Village and Andover Center have big, old trees very close to houses, where any failure has serious consequences. Knowing which of these describes your property helps focus storm preparation where it matters most.
What about trees near power lines?
Branches near the service drop to your house, or along the street lines, are a common source of storm outages. Lines on the utility side are the utility’s responsibility, and only line-clearance-qualified workers should work near them. If trees on your property are growing toward lines, raise it with your utility well before storm season, and keep your own pruning focused on branches well away from any wires.
A simple storm-prep checklist
- Inspect large trees near the house and driveway in late fall.
- Remove deadwood and hangers.
- Reduce heavy limbs over buildings.
- Check old cables and install new support where needed.
- Remove dead and hazardous trees before winter.
- Tie up arborvitae and protect young trees.
- Keep the tree service number handy for after the storm.
Call to schedule a storm-season inspection and the pruning that prevents damage.
Keep a list of important trees and their condition, and update it after each major storm.
Storm preparation FAQs
When should I prepare trees for winter storms?
Late fall through winter, after leaves drop and before heavy snow. Dormant-season pruning is also best for most trees.
Will pruning make my tree storm-proof?
No tree is storm-proof, but removing deadwood, reducing heavy limbs and supporting weak forks significantly lower the risk.
Should I knock ice off my trees?
No. Iced branches are brittle and can break. Let ice melt on its own.
Does insurance cover tree removal after a storm?
It depends on your policy and what the tree damaged. Photograph damage and check with your insurer.
Who handles trees on power lines?
Your electric utility. Stay well back and call them; never try to remove branches from wires yourself.
Storm preparation is one of the most valuable things Shawsheen Tree Co. Andover does each year, because the work done in November prevents the damage of February.
